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Post by Boaz/robert on Feb 2, 2010 13:54:43 GMT -5
My sword is showing some wear and wanting to create a simple blue club with staby.
I've seen some tutorials but none that show the construction of a blue club using 2 fiberglass rods. I'm concerned about trying to wrap such a narrow core with the foam and having issues with the tension making it less durable.
Do I... A) cut a long narrow strip of camp foam to cover rod vertical B) cut a long strip & spiral it round to alleviate tension C) use a PVC core D) something else entirely? I've made two swords and three axes but always w/ a box construction so there has always been a flat side.
Oh, and is it best to socket the stabby a bit and can it be covered with on layer of camp foam for durability. I thought I heard someone explain that that was possible and passable but I am uncertain.
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Rowan
NS Admin
NS Chieftan
Only by death of sword will I get into heaven!
Posts: 852
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Post by Rowan on Feb 2, 2010 22:16:24 GMT -5
Rowans Answer- C... and yes you can socket the stabby, but make sure when you depress it that it "squishes" more then 1/2 inch and the "squish" is all you feel.
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Post by stubbie on Feb 2, 2010 23:07:12 GMT -5
I went C as well for a bat. 1/2" I.d. sced. 40.
You could try spiral wrapping your first layer of blue around the shaft and then wrapping it normal. I've not had any luck spiraling on a 3/8th" rod but others do it to golf clubs so its gotta be do-able.
(spiral = a 1" wide x camp pad length strip spun around teh core, like a barbers pole)
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Post by Duke Fontayne on Feb 3, 2010 22:30:00 GMT -5
I have a blue club that is made of 2 fence post 3/8 in rods. It flexes a lot in the side to side direction. <8> I spiral wrapped it twice and then taco-ed the third layer of blue. Sprials were approx 1 and 1/2 inches in thickness. I also mini nerf footballed a stabby tip onto it. With my 3 core mini-red I spiral wrapped the cores with strapping tape on the suggestion of Rowan. This seemed to work very well in minimizing the twist of the cores against each other.
It also seems to break down a lot about 2 to 3 inches below the tip. This maybe because of the amount of people I let borrow it and hit with the tip a lot. Or it may be because I made the whole thing with carpet tape and no DAP. Either way, this is my experience with the 2 fiberglass rod club. It has ripped 3 times in the 4 months that I have played with it. I am to the point where I am thinking about stripping it and making it into a sword. (((00)))
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Post by Furyun on Feb 4, 2010 11:29:28 GMT -5
We have only recently been playing with the 2 rod core idea for bats. Construction is as duke said, but if you want a stabby you need to make the cores one solid lump at the tip with tape as you do with an arrow (just wrap it)
If you can get a golf flag pole its better than pvc or rods
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Post by Boaz/robert on Feb 4, 2010 18:59:13 GMT -5
Began construction by setting two 1" strips down sides of rods. Used my drum sander to round them off to form a circular shape out of the core. Then I began my core construction. Looks solid so far. Good does of tape on layer one and setting up now to apply layer three. Durability has yet to be tested, but looks and feels as solid as anything else I've made so far.
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Post by Boaz/robert on Feb 9, 2010 10:30:24 GMT -5
Finished club it is durn near a red and I fear the flex is to high. But I could easily take about 4-6 inches off and cure both. Gonna get it check for a possible red first learn from my oversize mistake and remake a blue sometime. I imagine I would suck with a red considering I yet suck as a blue lol but the finished wep looks too cool to hack up just yet in imho. See you all Thursday.
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Post by Ska'ar Wulfsiger on Feb 9, 2010 20:57:52 GMT -5
If you decide to hack it up, cut from the pommel end at least so your work isn't all for naught. ;-)
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Post by Beard on Feb 9, 2010 21:40:12 GMT -5
Also, I believe if its red length or longer it has to pass as a red. If it doesn't then it fails.
I may be wrong so if anyone else knows the rule please chime in
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Post by stubbie on Feb 9, 2010 23:03:27 GMT -5
digitalbonsai.com/dagrules-draft/ Blue weapons are over 12" and under 48",. over 12oz. Red weapons are over 48" and 24oz. Anything else would be....what? A very well / oddly padded green weapon (assuming a green tip is present).
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Post by Boaz/robert on Feb 10, 2010 11:37:03 GMT -5
Its 46" so its blue. If it does pass as a red except for the length I may add 2" to the pummel so I can use it either way. The flex is right there, and I think it should pass but appears like it could be subject to opinion. I know hacking a few inches off pummel would decrease flex but it should pass as is (i think)
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Post by stubbie on Feb 10, 2010 19:11:43 GMT -5
If you're borderline flex from the get-go, you realize it'll just get worse with use. No reason NOT to use it but need to keep another in the wings for the inevitable day.
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Post by Ska'ar Wulfsiger on Feb 13, 2010 19:43:21 GMT -5
It's much harder to pass as a red than as a blue. It it's 2" shy and having potential flex issues, there is no reason to try to add 2" and hope it passes, because if it fails as red, as Beard said, it fails flat out. Hack a couple inches off to fix the flex and re-pommel it, that would be my veteran advice.
You should never have a weapon that is questionable, always make them to spec, make them to pass, don't cut corners or "hope" they will pass a certain test (be it flex, green, weight, whatever). Always make them to pass, not to slide by a few inexperienced checkers, or to hold up for maybe one event before they fail.
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